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Sassicaia 2017 Bolgheri Tenuta San Guido

  • James Suckling 97/100
  • Decanter 97/100
  • Robert Parker 94/100
  • Vinous 93-96/100

Deze heerlijke topwijn uit de Bolgheri “Sassicaia” heeft een robijnrode kleur en fijne aroma’s van bosfruit, (zwarte bessen, bramen) cederhout en kruiden. De smaak is zacht en verfijnd met nobele tannines. De afdronk is het evenbeeld van de smaak. Een wijn met veel persoonlijkheid en klasse. De smaak is intens en romig.
De wijn is gemaakt van 85% Cabernet Sauvignon druiven en 15% Cabernet Franc. De wijn rijpt maar liefst 24 maanden in Frans eiken.



Veilig betalen
Levering aan huis
Since 1902

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Tenuta San Guido is een van de meest bijzondere domeinen van Italië. Dit domein verwierf een iconische status toen zij in de jaren zestig de eerste Super Tuscan maakten, de nog immer bejubelde wijn Sassicaia. Italië was in de jaren zestig van de vorige eeuw verworden tot een producent van een enorme plas middelmatige wijn. De lokale bevolking deed zich tegoed aan deze wijn, die als enige kwaliteit de lage prijs had. Zoals altijd waren er hier en daar goede uitzonderingen op dit verhaal, maar in de breedte was dit de situatie. Als producent van kwaliteitswijnen had Italië een grote achterstand op een land als Frankrijk. De komst van Sassicaia bracht hier verandering in. Opeens stond daar aan het begin van de jaren zeventig een wijn die het moeiteloos op kon nemen tegen de allergrootste wijnen uit Bordeaux en deze zelfs naar de kroon stak. De internationale pers dook boven op deze nieuwkomer en raakte er niet over uitgesproken. Italië was apetrots op zijn Sassicaia en raakte in de ban van deze majestueuze wijn. De Tenuta bestaat inmiddels uit 90 hectare wijngaard, onderverdeeld in vele verschillende percelen, ieder met hun eigen bodemstructuur, hoogte (tussen de 80 en 300 meter boven zeeniveau) en ligging ten opzichte van de zon. De vinificatiekelder werd ingericht met kleine roestvrijstalen tanks om ieder perceel apart te kunnen vinifieren, wat de complexiteit in de wijnen ten goede komt. Er kwam ook een aparte rijpingskelder voor de Franse eikenhouten vaten. Naast Sassicaia maken ze op Tenuta San Guido nog twee prachtige andere wijnen: Guidalberto en Le Difese. Onterecht worden deze wijnen wel eens de tweede en derde wijn van het domein genoemd. In werkelijkheid komen ze van hun eigen geselecteerde percelen, kennen ze een afwijkende druivensamenstelling en bezitten een geheel eigen karakter.

James Suckling:97/100 punten

The balance and beauty to this is impressive, offering sweet, ripe currants and flowers with some crushed-stone and dry-earth undertones. Full-bodied with soft, polished tannins and a long, creamy-textured finish. It’s polished, yet concentrated. Better after 2022, but already very seductive.

Decanter: 97/100 punten

The 2017 vintage for Sassicaia was described by winemaking consultant Graziana Grassini as ‘contracted and difficult, but it evolved impressively well with great strides during the oak ageing’. The wine shows a great intensity and elegance on the super-restrained nose of bramble fruit, layered with cedar, kiwi peel and a touch of oak. Surprisingly velvety, silky tannins and brilliant acidity are supported by creamy mid-palate weight with an amazingly savoury finish of cedar and tobacco. Drinking Window 2020 – 2040

Robert Parker: 94/100 punten

The 2017 Sassicaia is a fascinating wine that symbolizes a never-ending tug-of-war between vintner and vintage. The question is who comes out on top? In this case, my money is on the vintner. The 2017 vintage, characterized by scorching heat and drought across much of Italy, was not an easy one. However, vintners had ample time to prepare because those climatic challenges had already played out midway through the summer season. Vintners with experience such as that amassed at Tenuta San Guido (now on the eve of Sassicaia’s 50th birthday celebration) knew exactly how to handle the tricky 2017 growing season. Fruit was harvested early to avoid any jammy sensations, and a strict selection process was employed in order to preserve the best clusters.

This Sassicaia represents 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc, with most of the fruit coming from the Tenuta’s historic vineyards Castiglioncello, Quercione and Doccino. These plots are all located on the back hill of Bolgheri at slightly higher elevations where they enjoy cooler nighttime temperatures. Old vines also have a deeper root system that is key to braving dry and hot summers. You can absolutely taste those choices here thanks to the wine’s aromatic profile that offers more variety-driven green highlights of wild berry, forest floor and bramble than I would have expected. With time, as the wine takes on more air in the glass, you get a hint of summer plum or cherry cough drop, and this, to my surprise, is the only subtle reminder of the hot vintage encountered. I found the aromas here to be authentically “Tuscan” in character, more so than other vintages, with balsamic and Mediterranean elements that borrow directly from the Sangiovese playbook. I left the wine in my glass over the course of a day, checking back periodically, to find a growing mineral profile of rust or metal that recalls the high concentration of iron and manganese found in these Bolgheri soils. Another vintage-specific adjustment made in 2017 was shorter overall maceration times in steel tanks (from 10 to 12 days for the Cabernet Sauvignon and eight to 10 days for the Cabernet Franc). However, pump-overs and délestages were almost doubled in order to introduce more oxygen to the yeasts during fermentations at lower temperatures. Based on my understanding of fermentation kinetics, this means the 2017 Sassicaia would have achieved the same amount of extraction in about half the time. This process champions the cool-temperature fermentations that are a hallmark of Tenuta San Guido, despite the heat of the vintage. This puts more emphasis on aromatic elegance and minerality, rather than mouthfeel texture or creaminess per se. In fact, the 2017 Sassicaia is much shorter in the mid-palate compared to 2015 or 2016. In terms of oak, Tenuta San Guido takes advantage of the softer tannins found in Allier and Tronçais oak. The 2017 vintage saw a greater percentage (from 20% to 30%) of third and fourth passage barrique during the first 10 months of aging. The decision to use more neutral oak favors the reduction of oxygen and softens the tannic profile. Although the wine does end with a hint of bitterness, it took on noticeably more volume and soft richness the longer I kept my sample in the glass. To recap my assessment, and with the memory of the 100-point 2016 vintage so fresh in my mind, I would give this wine a seven out of 10 in terms of aromas, a five out of 10 in terms of mid-palate, and an eight out of 10 in terms of structure. Another way to read those conclusions is as follows: The 2017 Sassicaia was expertly built to withstand a long aging future, yet only time will tell if the beauty of the bouquet will evolve at the same pace. This fascinating wine magically captures the hallmarks of cool-temperature winemaking in one of the hottest vintages in recent years. Vintners, not vintage, won this round

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